Five Essential Items for Every Man’s Closet

When it comes to your clothes, it’s worth investing time and money in key pieces that will last a lifetime.

by Yale Breslin

ONCE UPON A TIME, men’s fashion was simple. A few pairs of jeans, a few good suits and you were set—not just for a season but for years. Talk about the good old days. Today, popping into the shop, or even browsing online (the preferred choice of the shopping cognoscenti), is no small task.

The meteoric expansion of men’s fashion over the past decade has brought a bounty of benefits—men are finally dressing their age and body type, understanding what shapes and silhouettes work best for them, and realizing that less is more—but it has also created one big dilemma: a paralyzing amount of choice. Each season, an ever-growing number of menswear designers add to the list of wardrobe “necessities.” After all, who doesn’t need a gold lamé tracksuit, a scarf the size of a picnic blanket or a hat that looks like something Smokey Bear would wear—and that only one of the world’s biggest rap stars could actually pull off?

This fall, it’s time to get back to basics, sticking to what you know best and are most comfortable in: the classics. Whether you follow every trend with the consuming passion of a teenage crush or still bum around in the same Abercrombie & Fitch T-shirt you wore at uni, when it comes to your wardrobe, it’s worth investing both time and money into a few key items that will, with proper care, last a lifetime.

THE CAMEL COAT

A common thread that wove its way through the men’s fall collections was the camel coat. Little wonder. This longtime closet staple is about as easy as they come. Sharp and simple, it looks good on just about everyone, from Prince Charles to Kanye West.

If you don’t already have a vintage coat you can resurrect or are simply looking for a quick way to update your look, you’re in luck. This season, almost every menswear designer out there put their own unique spin on this most classic of coats.

Marc Jacobs ’s classical interpretation comes in ultra-soft baby alpaca and wool (£1,310; marcjacobs.com ), while Marni’s slightly furrier version seems to reference “Where the Wild Things Are” (£1,170; +44 (0)245 9520). Perfect for the urban jungle. Ralph Lauren styled his like a trench, with a tonal belt (£1,195; ralphlauren.com ), while AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi created a modern classic with his double-breasted version (€580; mrporter.com ) and Burberry updated its Chesterfield in a luxurious double cashmere blend (€3,095; burberry.com), for an easy transitional piece that will take you from the nip of autumn through the chill of winter.

THE CLASSIC BLAZER

The blazer isn’t just the most classic item a guy can own, it’s the most necessary. Season after season, it dominates the runways—not to mention the boardrooms. But it can also be the piece that’s least likely to succeed in your closet. One of the most common mistakes men make is wearing a blazer that doesn’t fit. You know the ones: The shoulders are too bold, the sleeves too short and the hemline goes way further than it ever should.

This fall, the blazer is shrinking and it’s time to get on board. Emporio Armani gives you exactly what you want—a black cashmere jacket that masters fit, proportion and comfort (€1,500; armani.com ). Playing with subtle texture, Fendi’s navy flecked-wool version is a keeper (€875; farfetch.com ), while Jil Sander shakes things up with a midnight-blue version in textured brocade (£1,050; jilsander.com ). But Scott Sternberg ’s cult label, Band of Outsiders, trumps them all with a youthful tuxedo blazer with sharp lapels ($2,200; bandofoutsiders.com ). Dress it up with a fitted chambray shirt and your favorite tie, or dress it down with your favorite jeans and Chelsea boots. You’ll look debonair regardless of your direction.

THE BLACK JEANS

It’s not the easiest thing, finding the perfect pair of slim-cut black jeans. Fit, as we all know by now, is key. Add to that the challenge of buying denim that can make the transition from day to night, while still maintaining that masculine feel, and it may feel hopeless.

But this season, designers have eliminated the excess—so say goodbye to zippers, extra pockets, patches, fades, rips and tears. Jeans are being streamlined, tailored to the idea of “what a guy really wants.”

Who did it best? Levi’s is a tried-and-true brand whose authenticity still reigns supreme in the denim marketplace. Try the 510 skinny fit (€99; levi.com ). For a more rock ’n’ roll edge, you won’t find a better way to channel Jagger than to put on a pair of Saint Laurent’s Hem jeans (€290; ysl.com ). J.Crew, meanwhile, under the design direction of Frank Muytjens, can be relied on for a solid pair that won’t break the bank (€113; jcrew.com ).

There’s also a new kid on the block that looks likely to dominate the denim space, and that’s Frame Denim. The London-based brand, which has already managed to get the girls’ attention with its hip-hugging styles, is tackling the guys’ market with its L’Homme Noir Slim-Fit, recently unveiled on Mr Porter (€228; mrporter.com ). Long and lean but with room to move—it’s as if they read your mind.

THE PERFECT TEE

White or gray. When it comes to a solid crew-neck T-shirt, these are the colors that should dominate your drawer. The classic, clean silhouettes seen in other sectors of fall fashion should also be applied to this wardrobe staple.

Yet for such a simple item, many get it wrong. The hemline should sit just below your waist, the shape should err on the fitted side and the sleeves should fall somewhere between the middle of your shoulder and the elbow. Easy in definition, difficult in practice.

Fruit of the Loom is a guaranteed success—who doesn’t love a three-pack (£11 for a three-pack; outdoorlook.co.uk )? The award for the most bang for your buck goes to Gap, whose white and gray essential tees stand the test of time without fading (€10; gap.eu ).

If you’re looking to go more upscale, T by Alexander Wang has a version in solid heather gray (€105; mrporter.com ), while ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo ’s sophisticated T-shirts are worth everyone’s investment (€63; eastdane.com ).

Roll the sleeves up slightly if you’re feeling playful. If James Dean did it, so can you. Just be sure to keep it subtle.

THE DRESS SHOES

When it comes to footwear this fall, be bold and buckle up! The most advanced of all dress shoes, the monk strap, is making a comeback. Gone are the days of pairing your “fancy” monk straps with a suit. Instead, treat them like the rest of your kicks—wear them every day. Try Bottega Veneta’s double-strap boot (€850; bottegaveneta.com ), or Dolce & Gabbana’s single-strap version with bold silver hardware (€475; dolcegabbana.com ). For the fashion-forward, Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane blurred the line between a creeper (another runway favorite) and a monk strap—creating a covetable mashup (from €695; ysl.com ). Or play it safe with Saint Laurent’s simple Université 30 (€595; ysl.com )

THE GUIDE // Three Style Icons

You’ve got role models to help guide you in life and business—why not in style? Start your sartorial lessons on the silver screen, where the likes of Eddie Redmayne, James Dean and Ryan Gosling provide fashion choices to match their acting skills and good looks. They’ve each taken risks, but always erring on the side of a classic sensibility.

Source: The Wall Street Journal

Layering

Here we are, halfway through October and the weather should be cooling down over the next few weeks. But, just because it’s fall/winter doesn’t mean you don’t have to still look your best at work. So how can you look great and still stay warm? Layering my friends. Layering.

Now, you don’t want to walk into the office (or happy hour or church or anywhere) looking like four random racks from the Goodwill so you have to have a plan of action when it comes to layering in the winter. Here’s a pretty good formula for making sure that you stay warm and still remain stylish. (If you’re in a moderate region, it may not be cold enough for this full outfit until December so bookmark this post and come back to it later).

First layer: Underwear

I don’t care what season it is, you CANNOT skip out on the underwear. Whether you’re a boxers or a briefs guy, please put on some underwear. And a tank top/A-Shirt may work to your advantage too just to provide some extra insulation if needed.

Second layer: Thermals
Thermals/Long Johns are a great way to insulate the body during the coldest times of the year. They are worn in place of a regular undershirt and a must-have in every man’s wardrobe if he lives in or plans to ever travel to an area where the temperature drops below 40 °F.

Third layer: Slacks/A Suit and a Shirt
You’re still going to work. You still have to wear pants. You still have to wear a shirt. But, since you have two layers clothing on underneath this one, you may want to opt out of wearing your most well-tailored shirt and suit. It will create for a pretty awkward day for you and those in your office. Just my suggestion.

Fourth layer: Sweater
You can wear a sweater between your suit jacket and your shirt. Make sure that it compliments your outfit though. You don’t want to be wearing a sweater the color of split pea soup with a black suit (or any suit that I can think of for that matter).

Fifth layer: Outerwear
In the event that you are dealing with unbearable cold and more than a suit jacket/blazer is required, it is time to pull out a top layer. In a formal business setting, I recommend a peacoat or a 3/4 length as a winter coat. Anything else will take away from your shirt and tie. However, if business casual is the dress code, you can get away with a well-kept jacket. Also, gloves, hats, and scarves are acceptable until you sit down at your desk. Then they need to be removed unless there is some kind of heating malfunction in the office that day.

Don’t be afraid to have fun with layering. It can really help you find your fall/winter style and add a whole new weapon to your arsenal of style. And, if you have any other suggestions, let me know. The more, the merrier.

Chilly Complements: The Overcoat

Morning everyone.  This is the second installment of the #ChillyComplements series.  Last week, I focused on scarves and this time around, overcoats are the focal point.  Feel free to leave your two cents in the comments section.  Thanks for reading.

High school used to be our job.  We didn’t get paid for it, but that was our figurative 9-5.  The dress code, for many of us, was relaxed.  Toss on some jeans, a thermal shirt, and a Starter coat with an NFL team on it and you were ready for cold weather season.  Well, now, that is only acceptable if you’re headed to a sporting event.  Long story short, you’re too old to be wearing puffy Giants coats to work these days if, under it, you have a collared shirt on.  So now, you need to be looking for a more sophisticated coat.  Something that says “This person has class.”  But you don’t want to get one that is TOO big (there is an example of an over-sized overcoat below).  I decided to head to the two of my favorite menswear blogs The Art of Manliness and Gilt MANual to find out some specifics on how to properly buy and fit your overcoat.  Check them out below and see the examples of both a well-fitting overcoat and an ill-fitting one.  It’s getting colder.  No better time than now to make sure your wardrobe is ready for the season (Well, actually, the off-season would’ve been a better time in terms of prices, but oh well.  Too late).

Characteristics of a Quality Overcoat

A good overcoat should be warm, fit you, and make you look great.

Fabric. If you plan to wear your overcoat for years to come, make sure you buy a coat that is made of 100% wool and that it weighs at least 4 pounds (for average-sized men). In general, heavier coats last longer because the fabric is more durable.

Cashmere coats are nice, soft, and warm but they will show wear on the cuffs, the collar, and moths love them. In addition, they can double the price of a coat for little to no advantage (in terms of warmth or appearance). With the quality of most wool jacket fabrics these days, they are often just as soft as all but the finest cashmere. I find a nice compromise is a wool cashmere blend – my overcoat is about 10% cashmere.

Sleeves. The coat sleeves should completely cover the suit sleeve as well as the shirt cuff, and even reach a little further down. This way, you should not get cold on your wrists when you wear gloves with it.

Length. Traditionally, overcoats were rather long-reaching garments, extending almost all the way to the ankles. These full-length coats are often the coat of choice for seasoned gentlemen as they can compliment a wide range of figures…to include those of us a bit rounder in the midsection.

Today, most younger men wear their coats knee-length, which is anywhere between the lower part of the knee to slightly above. This only compliments men with trim builds and who wear the coat closer to the body. It’s a convenient option if you find yourself entering and exiting your automobile multiple times a day.

If you pick a full-length or knee-length coat is a matter of choice, but bear in mind that the full-length coat may be warmer, and can make you look a little more seasoned than the knee-length coat.

Fit. When you buy an overcoat, make sure to wear a shirt and a sportscoat or suit jacket because the coat has to fit on top of it.

Some men like a looser fit while younger men often prefer a trimmer fit. However, if you see X-wrinkles when buttoning your overcoat, it is definitely too tight.

Style. With regards to style it is once again up to you what you choose. The single-breasted overcoat with notched lapel is a good all-a-rounder whereas the double-breasted peak lapel overcoat is a little more formal and wears warmer when it is cold because you have two layers of fabric over your chest.

Construction. High-quality coats have a sewn canvas, whereas less expensive overcoats have a fused canvas. A sewn canvas is definitely more durable and built to last whereas a poorly glued interlining can come loose after a few years, ruining the garment. If money is of no concern to you, go with a fully canvassed overcoat. If not, try to buy fully canvassed suits and go with a glued overcoat. Unlike with a suit, a glued canvas overcoat is acceptable since it is cut looser and you wear it less frequently.

For the full article, visit The Art of Manliness.

Rule of Thumb

Alongside your favorite pair of jeans, your overcoat—at least during the year’s colder months—is worn on a near-daily basis. When you spend that much time with one piece of clothing, you need to pay attention to the details, and most importantly, that means the fit. A good overcoat should comfortably layer over a blazer, yet not seem sloppy or baggy when worn without one. A good (literal) rule of thumb is a simple sleeve measurement. Put on your overcoat, relax your arms, and see where the sleeve-hem falls. If it drapes past the first knuckle of your thumb, it’s too long, and it’s tailor time. Here’s the length you want: hitting just past the wrist, as shown on the right by Jason Statham. After all, it’s your coat, not your big brother’s.

Prada, Fall ’11: We’re all for bold statements on the runway, but you might want to think twice before trying the ‘big brother’ look in real life.

Source: Gilt